# Help finishing design of a 3.3V Wii-IR-Cam PCB **URL:** \ **Category:** PCB Design\ **Created:** [January 3, 2013, 8:01pm UTC](https://community.sparkfun.com/t/help-finishing-design-of-a-3-3v-wii-ir-cam-pcb/25734 "2013-01-03T20:01:11Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 4\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![clang](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/7993a0/32.png) [@clang](https://community.sparkfun.com/u/clang)\ **Post date:** [January 3, 2013, 8:01pm UTC](https://community.sparkfun.com/t/help-finishing-design-of-a-3-3v-wii-ir-cam-pcb/25734/1 "2013-01-03T20:01:11Z")
Hi all, I am really new to all this and need help by you. I need a PCB to mount/solder the Wii-IR Cam on to get the data via I2C to my Arduino. Apparently there don’t exist any PCB to purchase, at least not a 3.3V version which I would prefer to use with my Arduino FIO. After a lot of googling I found the spec of the pins of the IR-camera and some example PCBs (5V) and learned that I would need to use a 25MHz oscillator crystal to get it to work. At this point I decided to try to design my custom WII-IR-CAM PCB as a 3.3V version on my own. Currently I am just happy that I passed the DRM-Check at BatchPCB. I know that there may be missing some pullup/down resistors and decoupling condensators, too. The placement of the components and routing could also get a review. Could anyone please help me to complete this design? Attached you’ll find a ZIP-File containing my \*.brd and \*.sch file and also the crystal library I am using. [[http://www.mediafire.com/?d4zu8icbateudvu](http://www.mediafire.com/?d4zu8icbateudvu) Kind regards, Christian PS: I didn’t find my fist try to post this topic, hopefully this is not a double post. If it’s actually a double-post feel free to delete this.]([wiicampcb](http://www.mediafire.com/?d4zu8icbateudvu)) ---
**Author:** ![clang](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/7993a0/32.png) [@clang](https://community.sparkfun.com/u/clang)\ **Post date:** [January 25, 2013, 5:28am UTC](https://community.sparkfun.com/t/help-finishing-design-of-a-3-3v-wii-ir-cam-pcb/25734/2 "2013-01-25T05:28:20Z")
Well, don’t know if there was anything wrong regarding my questions, but I suppose I asked for too much. I’d like to give my topic another try before vanishing on page two of “PCB Design Questions”. Assuming that I connected all the nets right, what would be the next logical step to get a “good” PCB? Adding decoupling caps? Adding Pull-Up/Down resistors? Or am I missing something else? Kind regards, Christian ---
**Author:** ![n1ist](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/5daacb/32.png) [@n1ist](https://community.sparkfun.com/u/n1ist)\ **Post date:** [January 25, 2013, 12:47pm UTC](https://community.sparkfun.com/t/help-finishing-design-of-a-3-3v-wii-ir-cam-pcb/25734/3 "2013-01-25T12:47:46Z")
To have the best chance of people reviewing things, post them here in pdf form. Many people won’t jump thru hoops to review a board. I have never used the Wii camera, but here are a few notes: Schematic: - Make a custom schematic symbol for the camera. It’s confusing going from the text notes about camera pin numbers to the schematic showing two 4-pin connectors. - Add a 100n decoupling cap for the oscillator - Add pullups for SDA and SCL, unless you will count on having them on some other device on the i2c bus. I would add them anyway as you can always leave the parts off - The reset pin needs a 22-30k pullup and a 100n cap to ground. In your schematic, the camera is always held in reset - QG1 is a crystal oscillator, not a crystal resonator - In general. positive power symbols point up and ground and negative symbols point down. PCB: - Check the footprint of the camera; is the row-to-row spacing 100 mils or 150 mils? - You have text on pads, text off the board, and text on vias. These should be cleaned up - Vias usually are round - they take less space that way and that gives more options of how to hit them with a trace. Square thru-hole pads are usually only used for pin-1 indicators - Traces should connect to pads and traces at right or obtuse angles. Acute angles can trap acid during etching - Move the pin-1 designator for QG1 off the pad. Ideally, it should be outside the footprint so it is visible after the part is loaded - If you plan to hand-solder the board, I would extend the pads for QG1 a bit (10-15 mils) to give you a chance of hitting them with the iron - You have no mounting holes - If you have the space, add the board name, revision, and date on the silkscreen. Bottom silk is fine. /mike ---
**Author:** ![clang](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/7993a0/32.png) [@clang](https://community.sparkfun.com/u/clang)\ **Post date:** [January 25, 2013, 3:40pm UTC](https://community.sparkfun.com/t/help-finishing-design-of-a-3-3v-wii-ir-cam-pcb/25734/4 "2013-01-25T15:40:13Z")
Thank you. I will “rework” my board based on your hints. When I get stuck, I will ask again and make a copy of the board in pdf form. Maybe this board will get some more attention, when it’s done. I believe there are a lot of useful and cool things to achieve with the IR-Cam (although one has to break a Wii-Mote for getting the cam).