Connect 28 pin surface mount pad (SSOP) to a protoshield

I want to remove a 28 dual pin SMD device from a board and somehow attach a connector so I can route the pins to a proto shield. The SMD pad is really small (SSOP – Shrink Small Outline Package). This would be after removing the IC presently soldered there.

I see Sparkfun has boards to go in the other direction (DIP pins in PCB on one side and a SMD pad on the other side, like the BOB-00495). My problem is the opposite. I want to replace the SMD IC that’s on the original board with a connection to the proto shield.

I haven’t done any SMD soldering, but I’ve been watching the Sparkfun Chipquick SMD Removal and the Simon SMD tutorials, and I think I could work up to soldering something in.

For background, the IC is a PIC16 that reads some input and drives some relays. I’d like to replace the functionality of the PIC by being able to read and write to the pins from my Sparkfun RedBoard Plus. So jumpering over to the proto shield would let the fun begin…

Thanks in advance!

Hi @tedS ,

Have a search for “28-pin SOIC Clip”. There are a few out there. Here is one example. Check it matches your chip package size and leg pitch before buying. That might be a good place to start?

In the past, I’ve done things like:

  • Use a sharp knife to cut the legs off the chip package - cut where the leg meets black chip body
  • Use an iron and solder wick / braid to remove the legs from the PCB a few at a time - much easier than trying to heat and flow the whole chip one one go
  • Find ribbon cable of the right pitch
  • Cut a square end on the ribbon cable
  • Use a sharp knife to cut through the insulation leaving the copper intact - cut about 2mm away from the end of the cable - cut top side, then bottom side
  • Use needle nose pliers to pull the strip of insulation off the cable
  • Tin the exposed ends of the copper wires
  • Solder carefully to the PCB pads
  • Tape or glue the ribbon in place
  • At the other end, separate the individual insulated wires, strip and solder (e.g.) to the short end of 0.1" header pins
  • Plug the header pins into your proto shield

I hope this helps,
Paul

Removing the chip is a matter of about 10 seconds of effort with one of these inexpensive hot air rework guns and a pair of tweezers.

I’ve been using the gun for years, with no failures that I can recall. Experiment with removing chips from discarded PCBs before tackling the one of interest, though.

To patch in to the newly exposed PCB pads, I usually solder on short bits of wire wrap wire.

Thank you Paul!

I like the idea of the ribbon cable as there are 14 pins on each side.

I do want to point out that it’s an SSOP (Shrink Small Outline Package), where the pins spacing is half that of the SOIC package (0.65 mm vs 1.27mm). Do you think it’s still do-able? I think I’ll need to practice first with SOIC size.

On the test clip idea: unfortunately since the pad is SSOP they don’t seem to be available. That would definitely be my first choice even if it wouldn’t be a secure for long term operation.

Thanks for the suggestion jremington. Elsewhere on the board I need to connect two wires to thru holes that already have components installed. I tried using wire from my old spool of wire wrap and I couldn’t get it to stick. Perhaps you have some hints?

I ordered some low temperature soldering paste hoping that would tack it in place and flow better.

Ah, OK. You might have to go with Jim’s suggestion of wire-wrap wire.

My go-to is an old reel of Kynar insulated 30awg wire wrapping wire. The outside diameter is 0.5mm. JUST thin enough…!

A low cost USB microscope will help. The image can be quite laggy, but it’s a good addition for your workbench…

Got it. I have a friend who has a couple of nice microscopes for this sort of thing, and has offered to loan me one if needed. I think the limiting factor is my hands aren’t so steady. But will give it a try!

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Strange! My old stock of wire wrap is pre-tinned and no problem to solder with standard 60/40 rosin core.

Of course one must first remove the very tough insulating sheath, for which I use the stripping slot on a wire wrap tool.