Can someone familiar with the LPC210x look over my PCB design and tell me where I went wrong?
here’s the SVN for the eagle project:
http://www.realityshards.com/eagle/eagl … 210x_dust/
(lpc210x_v1d.zip is the one I submitted to BatchPCB).
I have made an attempt to create a breakout/dev board for the LPC2103, I know there are others out there but I want to create one for myself so I have a foundation for other projects that will have that chip on board, and because I was more interested in the SPI and I2C connections then anything else as most of the projects I have will be connecting a whole string of components using those busses.
I have a friend who does plenty of PCB and SMD work and consulted with him for much of the standard PCB/SMD issues and decisions, but as he worked with AVR chips he had no input for the requirements of the LPC and if I was meeting them properly.
The situation now is that I decided to go for it and put an order in for a couple of the boards, ordered all the parts, and put it together… and got nothing.
I have double checked all the pins, I’m getting power where I want power, I’m getting ground where I want ground (after soldering a wire to pin 19, for some reason the PCB didn’t run that connection). I’ve checked all the other pins and made sure they are going where they should, checked for solder bridges and there are none.
I’m getting 1.75v for the 1.8v inputs (within good limits) 3.2v on the 3.3v input (again within good limits), the DBGSEL and RST pins are pulled high, oscillator output is looking right.
I’m using the olimex ARM-USB-TINY from spark fun to connect to it. I’m getting “JTAG scan chain interrogation failed: all ones” (OpenOCD 0.6.0, installed on OSX 10.7.4 using MacPorts, using the following command: “openocd -f olimex-jtag-tiny.cfg -f lpc2103.cfg”, with the lpc2103 config adjusted to a 10Mhz clock).
So, the question is, where did I fail?
Some notes that I will be working on for round 2 (if I can figure out and solve the faults for round 1):
Reset button: I don’t know why I decided not to put one on…
Bigger resisters on the LEDs… those things are bright.
Make more use of the underside of the board… I’ll be using standoffs and a project box, I don’t care what’s there…
Post for grabbing the ground, from the scope to the voltage tester it’s just easier then holding the ground to some cap…
I would be very grateful for any assistance, and once I have a PCB design that actually works it’ll be up on BatchPCB marketplace with the BOM from digikey and links to the eagle schematics/etc so others can play with it as well.
Thank you for your time!
Erik