Hi, I just ordered one, but I realized I do debugging via SWD with the Raspberry Pi Debug probe. So, as far as the TP1 and TP2 on the schematic, where are those physically located, and do they have labels? Schematic: https://cdn.sparkfun.com/assets/6/2/1/0/8/SparkFun_ProMicro_RP2350.pdf
Eh…I see 5 in total
Boot, D0, D, C, B
It looks like B goes to pin 8 (Tx), so…I believe D or C are the only options remaining 
Ok yea, I just opened the .brd file and C is CK/TP1, D is IO/TP2
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Great, thank you! I suspected the board file would have the information, however, I do not have Autodesk or whatever to view EAGLE files installed at the moment. I was eyeballing those particular letters. Remember C for clock, D for data. 
EDIT - Likely D is for “debug” EDIT - By the way, the online schematic I linked shows only the labels TP1, TP2, TP3, TP4 tied to the RP2350A pins of SWDCK, SWDIO, WS2812-DO, and Boot respectively. So, thanks again for the missing piece of the puzzle, and is there a free way to view EAGLE .brd files or maybe consider a pdf version? Thanks!
In case this helps:
Remember C for clock, D for data.
Correct!
is there a free way to view EAGLE .brd files
Try this: Download EAGLE | Free Download | Autodesk
Though be aware Eagle is being discontinued in 2026: https://www.autodesk.com/support/technical/article/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/Autodesk-EAGLE-Announcement-Next-steps-and-FAQ.html
We’ve pretty much completely switched to KiCad because of this. The Pro Micro RP2350 was one of the last Eagle designs from us.
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Hello! I got the board and SWD debug is working fine. A quick note in case anyone misses it, for RP2350 and using the command line to debug, you need to build a custom OpenOCD available from Raspberry Pi. Instructions:
git clone https://github.com/raspberrypi/openocd.git
cd openocd
./bootstrap
./configure --disable-werror
make -j4
If you are on a Linux system without sudo, do su or login as root and do make install or if on Debian/Ubuntu/etc. sudo make install. As always, read the README.md for notes, inlcuding building to install to a custom path.
Hey Sparkfun good people, I assume the P jumper can be cut to disable the power LED?
Mine is often flashing brightly, twinkling, and otherwise being annoying. I assume it is the old power in this house? I am attached to my PC for power but the wall seemed the same.
I mean it doesn’t follow the serial monior and pulsate when the UART is active, does it?
Thanks
Oof, it was working great with Pico series C SDK programs compiled with board files and platform for the ProMicro RP2350, but now, after I hit reset once, it always wants to open up as a drive no matter what. I can’t drag a .uf2 over or copy/paste it either, no response. I soldered headers on last night, and it ran for hours. Also it ran today until I hit that reset switch. I’m not bad at soldering, and I had it in the third hand, great heat and tin, flux and a nice rhythm. Inspected with a loupe, but, hey, I could have done damage, you never know. And what is the green LED on the opposite side of the red power LED mean?
When I attach debugger, it says [External reset detected]
Bummer, I think something is wrong with the hardware. Switch stuck, but looks ok. Hmm.
EDIT: I guess I should cut the traces to the reset switch.
Yes, P is the power LED jumper…disconnect/cut/desolder to disable Hardware Overview - SparkFun Pro Micro RP2350 Hookup Guide
The other LED is tied to pin 25 Hardware Overview - SparkFun Pro Micro RP2350 Hookup Guide
Before cutting the reset you might try simply shorting the path (put a wire connecting the 2 sides) and/or test with a multimeter when pressed to check if it is functional or not
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OK, I will try it. Why would the other LED light up green when I have it powered from my phone charger, but not from a PC? Is that normal?
Why does the red power LED flicker, is that normal?
Should I also isolate the USB ground by cutting that jumper? Maybe the USB is screwing things up.
EDIT: Just FYI, before I did anything with this new board two days ago, I attached it to the PC, and the serisl monitor said “Smoke Test” or whatever, and the WS LED did a rainbow pattern. So it did function with that, and I loaded SDK programs, and they were also OK. I will check the switch more later. Maybe just a bad microswitch, but a bummer anyway.
FIXED!
I am not sure what all went on… but in the end it is working!
I took the advice and tested the microswitches with the meter, and they were fine. Of course, I panicked, and forgot the good old meter. The reset pins meter roughly the same as the boot when open or closed! OK, switch good, next…
I looked and I had left flux paste around, so I got out the isopropyl and brush and tried hard to clean it all off. However, the ProMicro still came up as a drive. Hmm, was it my OS?
I forgot to explicitly try holding down the boot button and pluggin in the USB-C. So, I did that and I was able to copy a .uf2 to the ProMicro. So far so good. It ran, yay! Then I re-plugged the USB-C and it came up as a drive, boo!
So I rebooted PC, and logged in without a desktop environment. I attached the ProMicro USB-C to a power brick at the wall, then used the SWD to upload a program. It worked. All OK now!
OK ran startx to get back into the KDE Plasma Desktop, attached the same USB-C cable to the PC port, and it all worked OK without the pop up of the micro as a drive!
EDIT: I think part of the problem was the flux. I did see it in those same corners, and by the crystal. The reason I think this is that now my power LED is nice and steady. So, good lesson.
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Well, now it suddenly died completely. No power LED. Oh well, I guess I damaged it during soldering or something. The board seems fun though, with a lot of memory.
In the long run, I should get a RP2350 with SWD pins broken out to a header or through holes to add a header instead.
It also might be worth investing in a quality mean-well power supply too
What is that? I was using a Samsung phone cord connected to the PC or to the wall wart. I have a Raspberry Pi 4 power supply I bought from Sparkfun, and that is probably decent.
On a Raspberry Pi Pico, I use a quality supply or cord for their micro-b usb connector. Why did Sparkfun decide to use a USB-C connector?
If the Pi 4 one is a Pi brand unit that is a mean-well supply
(I’m guessing you have this’n Raspberry Pi Wall Adapter Power Supply - 5.1VDC, 3.0A, 15.3W (USB-C) - TOL-15448 - SparkFun Electronics)
Our Pico design is just much newer and things have been migrating to USB-C for LONG time between…the real question is why Pi is still using micro lol (It looks like all of the 3rd party 2350s I see are all USB-C https://www.raspberrypi.com/products/rp2350/)
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Yes, I have a power supply like that, but unfortunately I did not use it for the ProMicro.
LOL, yes, true USB-C is the thing now. Maybe the Raspberry Pi Trading Co. got a good deal on a boat load of micro-b connectors. I know they try to keep the cost of the Pico series rock bottom.
As far as this board that will not respond, my USB-C current meter is showing that it still draws current, but that doesn’t mean much, I guess.