I need a PCB to mount/solder the Wii-IR Cam on to get the data via I2C to my Arduino. Apparently there don’t exist any PCB to purchase, at least not a 3.3V version which I would prefer to use with my Arduino FIO.
After a lot of googling I found the spec of the pins of the IR-camera and some example PCBs (5V) and learned that I would need to use a 25MHz oscillator crystal to get it to work. At this point I decided to try to design my custom WII-IR-CAM PCB as a 3.3V version on my own.
Currently I am just happy that I passed the DRM-Check at BatchPCB.
I know that there may be missing some pullup/down resistors and decoupling condensators, too. The placement of the components and routing could also get a review.
Could anyone please help me to complete this design?
Attached you’ll find a ZIP-File containing my *.brd and *.sch file and also the crystal library I am using.
I didn’t find my fist try to post this topic, hopefully this is not a double post. If it’s actually a double-post feel free to delete this.](wiicampcb)
To have the best chance of people reviewing things, post them here in pdf form. Many people won’t jump thru hoops to review a board.
I have never used the Wii camera, but here are a few notes:
Schematic:
Make a custom schematic symbol for the camera. It’s confusing going from the text notes about camera pin numbers to the schematic showing two 4-pin connectors.
Add a 100n decoupling cap for the oscillator
Add pullups for SDA and SCL, unless you will count on having them on some other device on the i2c bus. I would add them anyway as you can always leave the parts off
The reset pin needs a 22-30k pullup and a 100n cap to ground. In your schematic, the camera is always held in reset
QG1 is a crystal oscillator, not a crystal resonator
In general. positive power symbols point up and ground and negative symbols point down.
PCB:
Check the footprint of the camera; is the row-to-row spacing 100 mils or 150 mils?
You have text on pads, text off the board, and text on vias. These should be cleaned up
Vias usually are round - they take less space that way and that gives more options of how to hit them with a trace. Square thru-hole pads are usually only used for pin-1 indicators
Traces should connect to pads and traces at right or obtuse angles. Acute angles can trap acid during etching
Move the pin-1 designator for QG1 off the pad. Ideally, it should be outside the footprint so it is visible after the part is loaded
If you plan to hand-solder the board, I would extend the pads for QG1 a bit (10-15 mils) to give you a chance of hitting them with the iron
You have no mounting holes
If you have the space, add the board name, revision, and date on the silkscreen. Bottom silk is fine.