you can use any size bolt/screw you want but be aware of your PCB vendor’s size limits. Some PCB design SW has size limits too. I know Eagle has a max size hole though I don’t recall what it is.
Philba:
you can use any size bolt/screw you want but be aware of your PCB vendor’s size limits. Some PCB design SW has size limits too. I know Eagle has a max size hole though I don’t recall what it is.
What about glue? for very small size PCBs (40mmx40mm)?
sure, but make sure the glue isn’t conductive. I personally prefer to use screws but if it’s not going to be subject to a lot of stress, almost anything will do.
It also depends on your enclosure. Many enclosures have pillars with holes for screws to mount boards. You can usually find drawings for enclosures that will tell you what size screws they are made for. Most small enclosures with mounting points are made for 4-40 screws.
I don’t remember off hand what size holes you need for 4-40 screws. Every time I make a board I either do a quick Google search for “4-40 hole size” or else I check one of my other boards.
Some people use hot glue for mounting boards where screws aren’t convenient. I’m not sure how conductive hot glue is, so either do some testing to make sure it’s non-conductive, or be careful about where you put it. I’d guess it’s not very conductive, because I’ve seen people use it in spots where it would cause problems if it was conductive. But I’m not sure, so don’t blame me if it is conductive.
It depends, really. I have not heard of a ‘standard’ screw size for mounting PCBs. For the stuff I do, I’ve used 2-56 screws for smaller devices, 4-40 screws for typical size/use devices, and 6-32 screws for the stuff that gets dropped/thrown/harassed.
Again, it depends. You can find very small screws, some so small that they’re probably not practical for PCB applications.
There are parts that will hold your PCB by the edges. I believe they’re called ‘card edge’ connectors, but I could be wrong. I have one on my desk that says ‘Richco’. It’s a T-shaped piece of plastic with a groove down the center for the PCB edge. Certain enclosures are designed with grooves already on the inside, but you have to base your PCB outline on the enclosure then.
I’ve also used hot glue for smaller PCBs (for hobby use only). The trouble with hot glue is it gets brittle in colder temperatures and malleable in warmer temperatures (and doesn’t always hold well). I’ve also used silicone rubber adhesive, which usually works pretty well. I don’t know the dielectric properties of either, though, but it wasn’t an issue for what I used it on.
Can the four screw holes be added to a board in Eagle Light outside its 100 x 80mm board area limit? I’m just getting started with Eagle and the docs say you can’t place packages and signals outside this area. Can pcb mounting holes be outside this area?
Thanks for the reply. Using Eagle Light, is there any way to have the board sent out with its size larger then 100mm in one direction and I drill the mounting holes manually? Thanks.
RC:
Thanks for the reply. Using Eagle Light, is there any way to have the board sent out with its size larger then 100mm in one direction and I drill the mounting holes manually?
I take it that you are a "newbie"? Editing Gerber files
is probably not for you.
If you plan to use BatchPCB you can request (by email)
that your board is made to a different (larger) size,
and add the holes yourself after fabrication by GP.
I updated my profile and added my first name to my signature.
Yes, as I mentioned earlier, I am just getting started with Eagle. I did one board using toner transfer but I want a professionally fabricated board for my current project. I know I could use ExpressPCB’s software but learning Eagle appears to be a good skill to acquire. I’ll research gerber file formats, which could be my solution but I’m also now considering splitting my project into two boards. Two boards does offer some mounting benefits. I could use the grooves in the enclosure I’ve selected and it might make future updates a bit easier with two boards. I just can’t justify $750 for Eagle Standard right now. Thanks.
Consider using gEDA PCB if you want to make bigger boards than Eagle allows. I’m not sure at the moment about PCB’s status as far as Windows builds are concerned (I don’t use Windows, and PCB was primarily made for Unix-like systems such as Linux, BSD or Mac OSX - but I do believe a Windows port was recently made for PCB). However, I’ve used PCB to design boards that would have otherwise required a big multi thousand spend on software. PCB is open source (free software in the full sense of the word).
Another thing I like about PCB is the file format is open and fully documented and text-based, so I can write scripts to do repetitive tasks on a layout with a few lines of perl.
There is a bit of a learning curve, but there is for any complex software of this kind.
RC:
I just can’t justify $750 for Eagle Standard right now. Thanks.
Eagle does offer a not for profit license, I believe for $150. This allows larger boards to be made. If you are using this for personal/hobby purposes, that might be an option.