Micro OLED Breakout with pro micro does not turn on

Hello good night my name is Alejandro, I have bought a micro oled and a 3.3v pro micro, from your company the oled is working as SPI do not touch any bridge this original, to see how to connect it from your online help https: // learn .sparkfun.com / tutorials / micro-oled-breakout-hookup-guide? _ga = 2.157139379.986778855.1563910395-280601549.1540592807

The only schematic reference is this Arduino Pro 3.3V via SPI

Apparently it is from a pro mini 3.3 or other micro, I bought a pro micro you will have or can pass me a jpg of the connections or some link where it shows how to do it, since I have tried several combinations and the oled does not turn on, the pro micro works perfectly since I tried it with some examples.

Any help or grateful information

pro micro.png

I enclose the schematic circuit that I am using, also try changing cs from 10 to another pin and nothing

if there were any connection errors, could you tell me

thank you in advance

Hello Alejandro.

Thanks so much for the photos and wiring diagram, that really helps us in figuring out what your issue might be.

The connections you have in your diagram are all good, and as long as you’re using a 3.3 volt Pro Micro and not a 5 volt one, those should work with the MicroOLED_Demo.ino sketch.

The thing I think is causing your trouble is that it looks like you’re just sticking your jumper wires through the holes in both boards and into the breadboard. Unfortunately that won’t create a reliable electrical connection.

What you’re going to want to do is solder some header pins like [these to the under side of your Pro Micro and OLED Breakout so that those plug into your breadboard. That will give you a reliable connection and the display should work just fine then.

Here’s a picture showing the header pins I was talking about soldered to the Pro Micro.

20190725_110801.jpg
The other two photos show that this will work with a Pro Micro and what you should be seeing on the display when the example sketch is running.

20190725_111031.jpg
20190725_110726.jpg](Break Away Headers - Straight - PRT-00116 - SparkFun Electronics)

From this moment I thank you for your answer.

1- if I am using a 3.3v pro micro because that display uses analog 3.3v signals and if I used a 5v mic I would burn it.

2- Do not weld any PIN or micro or Oled display because if I lose salary I lose warranty if it does not work according to the distributor that sold that product in my country.

3- the D2 then it must not be connected for SPI that is correct

4- it could be that the problem that you inform me not to make any contact of the pins well I will see how I can solve it without having to weld on them, maybe using a strip of pins to grab them

well I will continue testing and waiting for your response from pin D2 and very kind for your answers

1- if I am using a 3.3v pro micro because that display uses analog 3.3v signals and if I used a 5v mic I would burn it.

That's fine. A 3.3 volt Pro Micro will work just great.

2- Do not weld any PIN or micro or Oled display because if I lose salary I lose warranty if it does not work according to the distributor that sold that product in my country.

These are tested to make sure they function correctly before leaving our factory so you shouldn't have to worry about getting a bad one. If SparkFun were to determine you had a defective part, your distributor would help you out. Sometimes things do get damaged in shipping . This photo shows how these get tested before shipping.

Capture0.JPG

3- the D2 then it must not be connected for SPI that is correct

D2 isn't required for the display to work but it's OK to connect and won't hurt anything.

4- it could be that the problem that you inform me not to make any contact of the pins well I will see how I can solve it without having to weld on them, maybe using a strip of pins to grab them

If any pin comes loose, even for a moment, the display will malfunction and appear to not work. You may be able to find some sort of connector that's designed to be solderless, but we **strongly recommend soldering** as it's the only way to ensure a solid connection.