Hi all, I have used this product to make PCB’s for a while now. Lately I have had a real problem having it stick well to the board. The main difference is I now use an HP laser printer (no toner density settings) instead of the old Lexmark.
I heat it with an iron on the “cotton” setting for 2 minutes. I have tried many different ways of cleaning the board; steel wool, sandpaper, acetone etc. Nothing seems to work.
i got some PnP a couple years ago. Sadly it dosnet work at all with my brother laser because in their words “its a high (or low, I cant remember which) toner temp printer”. I haven’t used it sence it failed to work so I cant remember the problem specifically, but it seems that some printers just don’t work well with the stuff. But leon’s comment says you should be good to go. Whenever I want to make a PCB I have to go to the public library to use their copier.
I remember I could get around the problem buy using it immediately after it was printed. Things seemed to work better then, event though it still wasn’t great.
The company that makes the stuff is great thow. When I emailed them with my problem they gave me a full refund with minimal hassle.
Brother printers don’t use a suitable toner. These problems have been discussed a lot on the Homebrew PCB Yahoo forum. I used to use an HP 4P for printing PCB transparencies - I think there was a little lever inside for setting the toner density.
Thanks, guys. I have a laserjet 3030. I can find no way to change the toner density. The print quality box is unchecked (max quality). I am using a toner cartridge by another manufacturer not HP.
The old Lexmark i used did a great job. Maybe it is the toner. I would have to change out the printer to find out! Regards, Ed.
elabudde:
Thanks, guys. I have a laserjet 3030. I can find no way to change the toner density. The print quality box is unchecked (max quality). I am using a toner cartridge by another manufacturer not HP.
The old Lexmark i used did a great job. Maybe it is the toner. I would have to change out the printer to find out! Regards, Ed.
Please try to adjust the contrast for lighter or darker print. It should help you
if you do not clean the copper board before the transfer is applied, it will not stick very well.
I found that sanding the copper in a cross-hatch manner using 320 grit sandpaper usually works. I then clean the copper with an automotive brake cleaner/degreaser. This helps to eliminate any oils from touching the board with your fingers. Let the degreaser evaporate completely before trying to iron on the tracks.
If you heat it too much or not enough, or not evenly, there will be problems.
I use a black marker to fix any problems with the tracks before etching the board.
I don’t think this type of transfer will work very well if you are doing alot of smd boards, I have never had very much luck that way.
newbie123:
if you do not clean the copper board before the transfer is applied, it will not stick very well.
I found that sanding the copper in a cross-hatch manner using 320 grit sandpaper usually works. I then clean the copper with an automotive brake cleaner/degreaser. This helps to eliminate any oils from touching the board with your fingers. Let the degreaser evaporate completely before trying to iron on the tracks.
If you heat it too much or not enough, or not evenly, there will be problems.
I use a black marker to fix any problems with the tracks before etching the board.
I don’t think this type of transfer will work very well if you are doing alot of smd boards, I have never had very much luck that way.
If the board is for smd, perhaps one has to better depend on photo process using pre-sensitised copper clad.
we use 3M make scrubber for cleaning the copper surface. one should wrap it up in a paper or polythene cover and seal off till the toner transfer method is used.We can use the DESMAT or HP make glossy paper used for inkjet printing. the adherence is better and transfer is more easy as the paper doesn’t absorb the toner. I could get better results with is type of paper.
mvs sarma:
If the board is for smd, perhaps one has to better depend on photo process using pre-sensitised copper clad.
Yes that is what I use (for smd), however it can be very expensive.
mvs sarma:
we use 3M make scrubber for cleaning the copper surface. one should wrap it up in a paper or polythene cover and seal off till the toner transfer method is used.We can use the DESMAT or HP make glossy paper used for inkjet printing. the adherence is better and transfer is more easy as the paper doesn’t absorb the toner. I could get better results with is type of paper.
I saw an article on using glossy paper right out of a magazine (even with the writing on the paper). It was quite interesting, but i still think the pre-sensitized boards are better for more precise work.
mvs sarma:
If the board is for smd, perhaps one has to better depend on photo process using pre-sensitised copper clad.
Yes that is what I use (for smd), however it can be very expensive.
mvs sarma:
we use 3M make scrubber for cleaning the copper surface. one should wrap it up in a paper or polythene cover and seal off till the toner transfer method is used.We can use the DESMAT or HP make glossy paper used for inkjet printing. the adherence is better and transfer is more easy as the paper doesn’t absorb the toner. I could get better results with is type of paper.
I saw an article on using glossy paper right out of a magazine (even with the writing on the paper). It was quite interesting, but i still think the pre-sensitized boards are better for more precise work.
The Desmat paper is far superior, as it is not glossy alone.
Totally agreed, but these pre-sensitized ones are NOT available in general market in my country India. Only industry uses a roll that they cut and laminate on to copper clad whenever they want.
Thanks all for your help. I am using PNP Blue toner transfer paper. It is designed expressly for circuit board fab. My Laserjet 3030 does not have a control for density. I invested in a real HP toner unit. The results were much better. There were a few problems but at least some of the toner stuck, and I was able to repair it with a sharpie. :lol:
Newbie123 thanks for the link on glossy paper. I tried that too and found I had the same problem of adhesion. The trace quality was much poor than the PNP Blue.
Anyway I got the board built now and am happy. Thanks, Ed.
elabudde:
Thanks all for your help. I am using PNP Blue toner transfer paper. It is designed expressly for circuit board fab. My Laserjet 3030 does not have a control for density. I invested in a real HP toner unit. The results were much better. There were a few problems but at least some of the toner stuck, and I was able to repair it with a sharpie. :lol:
Newbie123 thanks for the link on glossy paper. I tried that too and found I had the same problem of adhesion. The trace quality was much poor than the PNP Blue.
Anyway I got the board built now and am happy. Thanks, Ed.