.
Have you tried the smaller connectors? Just because the description says it’s for 10-12 gauge, doesn’t mean that the wire won’t fit… It may tight, but it will go in (use common sense here).
I have used a knife to strip and cut and/or wire cutters to cut and crimp… Depends on how much you want to spend. And just because you have a 200 dollar pair of crimpers doesn’t mean that your an expert…
You could just screw the wire directly to the switch.
codlink:
Have you tried the smaller connectors? Just because the description says it’s for 10-12 gauge, doesn’t mean that the wire won’t fit… It may tight, but it will go in (use common sense here).
I could try the smaller connector, but removing stands of wire to make it fit just doesn’t seem to be good practice. If the -what is it called… “barrel”?- of the terminal connector isn’t a solid piece, I could bend open wider. Still -don’t know if there is some kind of official system to categorizing all these things- you’d think that they would have different sizes of tc that could connect different sizes of wire to different sizes of switch-terminals.
Thank you for your response.
These folks (and many others) have spade (forked) terminal for #12 wire and any size stud you would like:
http://www.elecdirect.com/catalog/crimp … ades-forks
just google “spade terminal sizes”
BTW, ring terminal are generally preferred and the have zero chance of coming loose and falling off.
Is that switch rated for 20-30 amps? Why do you need #12 - #10 wire?
/mike
lyndon:
You could just screw the wire directly to the switch.
The wire is thick and stranded.
IdahoMan:
lyndon:
You could just screw the wire directly to the switch.The wire is thick and stranded.
Then I’d repeat n1st’s question: is the switch rated for the current you plan to carry? Everything you’ve said so far suggests that you have a mismatch between wire gauge and the switch’s capacity.
lyndon:
IdahoMan:
lyndon:
You could just screw the wire directly to the switch.The wire is thick and stranded.
Then I’d repeat n1st’s question: is the switch rated for the current you plan to carry? Everything you’ve said so far suggests that you have a mismatch between wire gauge and the switch’s capacity.
Yes.
They sell hollow metal rods at the hardware store. I could just make my own terminals with a hammer, assuming it’s the right metal. Or more likely get the push-on type TCs and just drill a hole through it.
So, what was wrong with the link to the terminals I showed in my previous post?
Did you even look?
You don’t want to buy the crimp terminals made for your problem?
Too lazy to look at someone like Grainger’s or Home Depot, Lowes, Ace hardware?
Most electric supply houses around town have them in stock nearly always.
Now you’re going to make your own?
If you’re going to Lowes, they have a 200 piece assortment for $24 - http://www.lowes.com/pd_447115-48412-10 … facetInfo=
http://images.lowes.com/product/convert … 8826lg.jpg
Hell, Harbor Freight has assortments also.
Dan, he sounds like the type of person who likes doing everything the hard way. I know people like this and there’s nothing you can say to change their mind…
@codlink - yes, you’re probably right…
I like woodworking and occasionally like to get out an old hand plane or the like.
I can make a board from a fallen tree, although that would be a rare instance indeed.
But if I need a screw, I don’t try to make it myself.
Why is the 1st message reduced to a dot? That is one way to make this thread an enigma!
Probably embarrassed and tried to delete the thread, but couldn’t. All he could do was edit his post… All he had to do was say, “well, you’re right man.” Hell, I do that all the time…