uC based reflow oven controller

well in our research, infrared ovens were the best option since we wanted the fastest responding oven.

we were limied to 2 consumer models, the b and d infrawave, and another i forget what it is…

the b and d was the easiest to hack (and the best looking oven too,…)

we have very good results with it.

the oven isnt too pricey, about 100 or soo…

but you could always get a ghetto oven for alot less…

we regularly do 2 sided SMD with same temp solder paste in this oven…

(with no parts falling off!! and floating around …) thats on 4 and 6 layer boards…

been using it for a pretty long time.

we now have a few of these on ebay on a discount…

:wink: :wink:

we are still getting our ducks in a row to support distributors,… hopefully well be able to sell from sparkfun at a nice discount…

our controllers use so many sparkfun accessories, its a no brainer to distribute them here…

weve updated the software again!

:slight_smile:

we can go upto 2 days in profile length now, and can attach a fan relay output also…

check it out!

anyone selling IR ovens in europe yet?

seems to be a common problem over there.

oh yah stop on by we have our new v 2.0 controllers in stock.

Hi there!

It there seems to be a problem to get hold of a 220V AC Infrawave oven in Europe (looks like they are all designed for 110V AC / US). In case we plug in a 110V oven in a 220V socket it will be alot of smoke and that would be too bad for such a nice piece of equipment. So how about modifying the Black and Decker Infrawave oven for Europe use? In case it is possible to wire two of the infraread heaing elements in series, the total series resistance of the elements would double and the the voltage over each element would be half of 220V (220/2 = 110V). One of the elements will be a rough series “regulator” that dissipates a lot of energy (intentionally). The drop over each element should be the same and they will dissipate the same power as when wired in paralell.

Does somebody on this forum have the wiring diagram of the Black and Decker Infrawave oven? In case it uses four identical elements that are originally wired in paralell, and they can be rewired, I guess this could be a solution. Purchasing some ovens on E-bay and sending them via low cost shipment as a group buy isnt such a big deal.

The electronics inside the box would be discarded anyway and the blower etc would have to be taken care of separately.

Anyone with the schematic or even better that could have a look if the unit has paralell wired elements?

Another idea: what about using two of these Philips infrared heating elements with solid state control inside a conventional toaster oven chassis (in case the B&D oven is not at hand): http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear … &R=0272306

Is it shortwave IR that is employed by Black and Decker in their Infrawave ovens ?

From Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Infrared_heater):

"Efficiency of infrared heaters

Theoretically, the efficiency of an infrared heater is 100% as it converts nearly all electrical energy into heat in the filament. The filament then emits its heat by infrared radiation that is directly or via a reflector impinging on the product to be heated. Some energy is lost due to conduction or convection.

For practical applications, the efficiency of the infrared heater depends on matching the emitted wavelength and the absorption spectrum of the material to be heated.

For example, the absorption spectrum for water has its peak at around 3000 nm. This means that emission from medium-wave or carbon infrared heaters are much better absorbed by water and water-based coatings than NIR or short-wave infrared radiation.

The same is true for many plastics like PVC or polyethylene. Their peak absorption is around 3500 nm. On the other hand, some metals absorb only in the short-wave range and show a strong reflectivity in the medium and far infrared. This makes a careful selection of the right infrared heater type important for energy efficiency in the heating process."

Question to the reflow people on this forum: does this mean that shortwave IR should be used to effectively heat metals (pads, solder, bga solderballs, copper etc) instead of longwave infrared? Is that why the Black and Decker Infrawave is preffered to a traditional run of the mill toaster?

By looking at the Philips spec. sheet (click on the link above), it looks like the that IR heater has its spectral peak in the 2500nm range. That means this is shortwave IR. Phillips also have elements in the 2700, 2800 and 2950 nm range (more longwave elements) by the way.

Marius

you dont need wiring diagrams!!

we have some pics of how the relays hookup… and how to hack it (in america and a 110 v environment…)

you have a top element feed and a bottom element feed coming from separate relays…

so it would be just a matter of putting that bottom relay feed at the end of the top relay out…

the wires are easy to see what goes where when you remove the side plate of the oven.

it is a very easy oven to hack!

are you gonna try it??

Hi corvette123, It would be fun to try. Sounds like it is just to serially connect the top and the bottom elements with the 230V AC in parallell over the two elements. The relays could be replaced with a triac or a solid state relay with PWM control (that I am sure your controller will take care of).

At the moment I have disassembled a el-cheapo toaster oven I found on the local electronic recyling station some days ago. It is marked “Bifinett KH1139”. That oven has elements that looks like “black ceramic”. There are two upper elements and two bottom elements. The annoying bell assy. (that I immediately disconnected) and the cheap electromechanical thermostate and switch is installed in this one too.

In case the elements of the B&D Infrawave are much better than conventional elements, it would be worth a try. I mean the B&D must be better than a conventional oven. I am going to reflow solder BGA arrays (Xilix FPGA’s etc). Is the B&W better for this application because it emits IR in a different wavelength interval?

If I could get a B&D Infrawave sent in cheaply (and it is better than the Bifinet KH1139 that I have), it would be worth a try. In Europe we have somewhat different ground systems. Some countries run isolated terra (Norway for example) where the protective ground is run via earth and no wire return. The distribution transformer’s ground is only connected to earth via a disneuter (spark gap). The capacitive coupling takes care of ground current in case a ground fault occurs. In case some idiot wires one of the phase leads to ground, or his hot water boiler element isolation fails, the system continues to operate but the ground is now potentially at a hazardous potential. If you live in an apartment and you have a broken connection to the earth but is connected to the same common ground wire as the stupid guy that wired the phase lead to ground, you are in trouble. If you toch any grounded cabinet in your house and you have a low resistance and/or high capacitance path to ground (barefooted or wet shoes), the ground current will run thru you to earth. Other countries (most in Europe) run terra neutral where there are L1, L2, L3, N and PE connectors. For normal consumers, the Lx to N differential is 230V. There is a protective ground lead as well. The center tap of the transformer is wired to both N and PE. That means if a ground fault occurs, a fuse is going to blow.

I am not sure how the US grid is wired, but I am sure you can explain. I assume you have a hot, a neutral with connectivity to the distribution transformer’s ground and a protective ground that has a earth connection via a rod or wire. In case that is true it would be easy to wire it up.

Am I correct regarding the US wiring incl. ground?

Marius

The US is a split phase 240V system. So you have L1, L2, N, GND. Lx to N or GND is 120V, L1 to L2 is 240V. N is connected to the transformer, GND to a ground rod at the the service entrance.

Most outlets are 120V with L1 or L2 (depending on breaker location), N, and GND in a 3 conductor outlet. IIRC N and GND are connected in the breaker panel. Shorting L1 or L2 to either GND or N will trip the breaker.

ttabbal:
The US is a split phase 240V system. So you have L1, L2, N, GND. Lx to N or GND is 120V, L1 to L2 is 240V. N is connected to the transformer, GND to a ground rod at the the service entrance.

.

L1 to L2 is 208V

Andy

let us know how it goes…

ebay has some B and D’s i think… (or cheaper…)

but you guys definately need a distro for them in euroland.

you could make some decent change hacking them for euro’s…

i know alot of customers of our reflow controllers would buy them!

a large percentage are euro’s… probably about half of them or more.

and they all complain about the same thing, no IR ovens in euro!!!

but yah the IR is great… if it just turned on and u stick your hand in there immediately you feel the burn on your hand!!

:lol: :lol:

so great response time…

Hi,

Very recently noticed some IR toaster ovens on ebay, sorry for the very late notification. Sale expires in several minutes but no doubt he will put them up again. I think he only got rid of one from ten. Just 15 quid plus 10 quid postage.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MINI-OVEN-GRILL-C … 286.c0.m14

Regards

Dez Ellis

hey thanks for posting that!!

620 watts… not alot to play with!!

but the chamber looks smaller…

it might work for euros!!

Couple of toaster reflow project questions…

Background, I have a furry new toaster oven that can be sacrificed and I have several kit projects on my bench right now that have SMD’s and I’m a little behind the curve on this but here goes…

  1. Is the sparkfun toaster controller project for $100 worth it?

  2. Is this an active project? I mean with people currently building it or is it close to retirement?

  3. Can I use the furry toaster oven if I have to solder both sides?

  4. Does this require a computer (PC) to be hooked up to the project for it to work with the oven?

  5. Are there additional components needed not included in the kit?

Thats it for now, Thanks in advanced?

11M.Ranger:
Couple of toaster reflow project questions…

Background, I have a furry new toaster oven that can be sacrificed and I have several kit projects on my bench right now that have SMD’s and I’m a little behind the curve on this but here goes…

  1. Is the sparkfun toaster controller project for $100 worth it?

  2. Is this an active project? I mean with people currently building it or is it close to retirement?

  3. Can I use the furry toaster oven if I have to solder both sides?

  4. Does this require a computer (PC) to be hooked up to the project for it to work with the oven?

  5. Are there additional components needed not included in the kit?

Thats it for now, Thanks in advanced?

Since I have some knowledge about some of the questions, I’ll try to give my advice on those.

  1. Depends on your view point of “necessity”.

  2. I don’t know.

  3. This question is a double edged sword. I could say yes, and no. This depends on a lot of factors regarding the design needing reflow. If you solder the side with small light parts first, then solder the heavy/large parts last, it can be done. If you have massive metal parts on both sides, it is doubtful you ever get it soldered at all, unless you use different melting point solders. Even then, it is a gamble.

  4. The seller would answer this question better.

5.Again see #4.

I will say, if a toaster is setup correctly, it can reflow really well. I personally used one before buying equipment to start a SMT assembly business.

I can not vouch for the controller you are looking at, as I have not used it.

I wish you luck with your endeavors, you are stepping into a new realm that will open a lot of possibilities.

James L

I think the answer to #1 really depends on what you are doing. I’d done a number of SMT boards just a soldering iron. I’ve also used a hot air station. In general if you aren’t going to do a lot of boards, you might be better served doing it by hand with a soldering iron.

I’ve been on th fence about getting one of those puppys for a while but I can’t convince myself that I would be better off with it.

What is a “furry toaster”? My imagination gets me a rather unappetizing picture.

Philba:
I think the answer to #1 really depends on what you are doing. I’d done a number of SMT boards just a soldering iron. I’ve also used a hot air station. In general if you aren’t going to do a lot of boards, you might be better served doing it by hand with a soldering iron.

I’ve been on th fence about getting one of those puppys for a while but I can’t convince myself that I would be better off with it.

What is a “furry toaster”? My imagination gets me a rather unappetizing picture.

Philba,

If you ever use a toaster, you will never go back to hand soldering. It is just mystifying how much less work is required.

After I bought a toaster…I never used a iron again on SMD parts.

James L

I can’t dispute your comments but it seems to me that laying out paste by hand would be pretty tedious and for one-offs, it’s hard to justify a stencil.

I find soldering SMDs by hand to be pretty easy.

Phil

Philba:
I can’t dispute your comments but it seems to me that laying out paste by hand would be pretty tedious and for one-offs, it’s hard to justify a stencil.

I find soldering SMDs by hand to be pretty easy.

Phil

I do agree…that the stencil is a hard justification. I usually build more than one board…so it was easier to justify for me.

You do have a point about that.

James L

So, a good rule of thumb, if you make multiple boards, an oven makes a lot of sense. It may make sense for a really complex one-off board.