the pid rates are really cool, going from 2.5 mS to 1 second!!! and yes they affect the derivative term as well as the other ones, so its one more thing to play with.
3 algorithms to choose from including:
full on / off
PID with full on / off
PID with PWM and full on / off at extremeties <10% or >90% duty cycles.
so its coming along, will probably add crystal fonts LCD support and users can modify firmware from there… serial.
yes you can drive the PID from another source such as an IR thermocouple from www.omega.com that goes from 0-5 volts. then have the regular thermocouple report its data also!!!
all selectable in software. no programming for you guys to do.
I couldn’t relay see any reason why I would spend $35 on a relay for a $50 oven and $50 controller. The SSR I have is quite well built and seems to function like any other.
I got a bit of a fright when I first fired up the oven. I modified it from new so the first time I turned it on was after the modifications. When I gave power to the SSR the orange neon came on, and so did the quartz heating elements (as expected) but smoke started pouring out of the oven. At firs I thought a wire had shorted or melted, but it turns out that it was the quartz heating elements producing the smoke. I am not sure if this is the correct operation, but it would make sense that new heating elements would need to burn off some residue first.
The oven I used was one that I received as a gift/freebie a while ago, it is a Sunbeam Mini Bake & Grill ( http://www.sunbeam.com.au/Pages/Browse/ … x?pid=1075 ). It is rated at 1300-1400W and is the perfect size for the panels I get from GPX, leaving a few inches around the edges.
If there is anyone reading this that wants to modifiy the same oven, it is fairly simple, you just wire the SSR in on the HOT side of the 240VAC. I used huge 12AWG silicone wire on any wire I added into the oven, which would be good for 100 or more amperes.
I should receive the controller next week, so it should just be a simple matter of hooking up the relay and thermocouple to the controller and testing it all out. Currently the controller will sit outside the oven, but once I measure the temperatures in the side (electrics) compartment, I will decide if the controller can be mounted in there. Ideally, I would like to make a fully contained unit with the controller and an LCD, but I am not sure if that will work with this oven.
hey youll have to use the old bootloader to load up the new firmware (dont use the HID bootloader) unless you have a pickit 2 and wanna program on the HID bootloader… it really doesnt matter hehehehe.
its just we switched to the HID bootloader cuase its 1 less driver right??..
that is cheap for a 25 amper!! good find.
drop us a line in our forums of any bug reports…
version 5.0 has so many new options…
i would start with a 5 ms or 100 ms PID with full on / off.
then when u get good results on that one, goto the PID with PWM (full on / off @ extremes).
remember the pid gains go from 0-255.
leave the integral at zero. we have limited in the firmware at 400 (hey that should be an option too ) but leave it to zero and adjust PD to start.
id try a P of 40 and a D of 120 to start out. thats where the black and decker is dialed in at
very nice graphs.
you can download our new pdf manual (and the version 5.0 software in our forums) and it has like 20 new graphs from version 5.0 in there… from the spreadsheet to the curing/drying runs… has a little bit of everything.
btw: what OS u running?
yah be sure and report us any bugs in our forums…
there will be a quick bugfix released based on everyones feedback.
I found it at target. But use the craigs list cause thats what google found from the model #.
My question is this… This thing has a temp sensor, programability etc etc is it possible this over can be used out of the box. I am completely new to reflow soldering and not sure the requirements. Other wise can some one suggest a good oven to use that perhaps has been used , and tested.
Im a little put off by the number of disclaimers and having trouble finding some one who admits testing their fire starter, with out burining the house down.
How worried would you be , for my saftey, if i told you my end goal is a usb driven , desktop reflow soldering oven that for storage, and use, is 4 feet away from my head, when im sleeping in my bed , in my bedroom. How careful do i need to be considering my lab is my bedroom. (actual soldering is not a concern as I have a 4 foot patio door in my room and the oven can easily be put out side to actually bake things. Storage is my concern. )
XsavioR:
How worried would you be , for my saftey, if i told you my end goal is a usb driven , desktop reflow soldering oven that for storage, and use, is 4 feet away from my head, when im sleeping in my bed , in my bedroom. How careful do i need to be considering my lab is my bedroom. (actual soldering is not a concern as I have a 4 foot patio door in my room and the oven can easily be put out side to actually bake things. Storage is my concern. )
I wouldn’t worry at all if you unplug the oven when you are not using it. How could it start a fire in that case?
I was actually thinking about lead, If i cant cook food in the oven why should I be able to store it 4 feet from my bed when not in use unplugged still full of lead.
Just saying that cant be a good idea eh?
This is more of a take out of the plastic tote kept in the basement when I need it sort of deal. Planning how nice to make this, if its on my desk it should be worthy of the showcasing , if its in a tote in the basement its a waste of effort to make it nice.
Well, the lead and flux residues should be inside the oven, which is why you shouldn’t cook food in it. Generally if you are not handling solder, or eating it, you won’t have a problem. Being in the same room with should it not an issue. It would be the same as having a roll of solder sitting on your desk.
Alright , Any ideas for ovens ? Yes I read the post and saw a few suggestions. But also notice this post is quite old and there is much experience to draw from.
Basically looking for easy tear down so I can get it Back together. Going for the “printers brother” look.
I found it at target. But use the craigs list cause thats what google found from the model #.
My question is this… This thing has a temp sensor, programability etc etc is it possible this over can be used out of the box. I am completely new to reflow soldering and not sure the requirements. Other wise can some one suggest a good oven to use that perhaps has been used , and tested.
Im a little put off by the number of disclaimers and having trouble finding some one who admits testing their fire starter, with out burining the house down.
How worried would you be , for my saftey, if i told you my end goal is a usb driven , desktop reflow soldering oven that for storage, and use, is 4 feet away from my head, when im sleeping in my bed , in my bedroom. How careful do i need to be considering my lab is my bedroom. (actual soldering is not a concern as I have a 4 foot patio door in my room and the oven can easily be put out side to actually bake things. Storage is my concern. )
good concerns you have!!
for safety:
use a GCFI wall outlet in your enclosure. that way it wont be so shocking.
make sure your on a breaker, double up with a breaker type wall outlet too.
do your hack right! low side hacks are better than high side hacks obviously.
good ventilation when running the oven (and opening that door the 1st time)
there is a 2 switch terminals built into the controller (for safety). dont jumper them together! use a real SPST switch from radioshack. panel mount toggle switches are cheap. Although for testing purposes you could jumper those 2 terminals together.
use no PB paste if possible.
use a good SSR and not some frankencircuit to interface to the oven.
connect grounds on mains circuitry!!! this is a must!!!
Our “testing” reflow oven has been running for 3 years without problems!! It uses a black and decker infrawave and an OMRON G3NA-225b SSR rated for 25 amps.
We have the GFCI installed in the back, and we plug the oven into that.
The GFCI is wired upto our SSR safely.
[Liability statement]
The above safety info is intended for safety measures and does not comprise a “how to " guide”.
You are responsible for your own implementation and use of the controller