I’m so sorry guys who replied to my last post… It was so kind of you…
Was too excited when i actually saw my bluesmirf work… There wasn’t anything wrong with my connections. I really dont know what went wrong… it just started working all of a sudden without any reason…
but after a little while, my bluesmirf returned to its evil self - Both Red and Green LEDs light up and it is undetectable and unconnectable. my Vcc is 5V from an LM7805 driven by a 9V wall wart. Previously when it worked, the 5V bus on my breadboard dropped to 3.5V when bluesmirf was powered up. But it worked miraculously then.
Now, on powering, the bus remains at 5V itself. Both LEDs are bright.
I tried reducing the 5V to 3.3V using a pot and then using that to power up the bluesmirf. Bad luck, it didn’t turn on.
I have read in another post, factory reset works in such cases. Could anybody help me with that? Where is PIO4? What should i do with it? I’m sorry I’m just a rookie…
Hmm. Is a little odd…
You should always power it with more than ~3.5V as it has a 3.3V regulator onboard plus a little drop-out.
A few questions:
It doesn’t do anything at startup?
You got caps on the power lines?
Were you doing anything when it stopped working?
Just wondering whether you have a hardware or software problem…
Hey,
I tried factory reset at last and I’ve regained control of my bluesmirf again…
Why the thing crashes i really don’t know… there are no capacitors in the line… startup is just blank with both LEDs bright and the weird thing is, there was something like 3.58V on the Tx line constantly… if powered by vcc=5V, shouldn’t logic levels be 5V and 0V ??
That brings me to my next question… remember i told about the bus voltage reducing to 3.5V when the bluesmirf is powered up? well, i used another 5V supply (from another 7805, of course!) to run my PIC (16F877A) and connected it to the bluesmirf (Rx-to-Tx). So with a logic high of 3.5V from the bluesmirf, do u think my PIC will recognize 3.5V as a HIGH? or do i need some level shifter?
Glad you go it going again. 
You will have to check the datasheet of your PIC, but usually anything over ~1V is considered logic-high and the BlueSMiRF Silver has 3-6V tolerant inputs so no level shifting nececery.
The Tx line from the BlueSMiRF should be from GND to around the voltage you’re powering the module with…
And you won’t need to use two seperate '7805s for the PIC and Bluetooth… 
Finally, you should have a capacitor or two from VCC to GND at every chip/BlueSMiRF.
Dude… This thing is REALLY HAUNTED!!! I just discovered my last attempt to factory reset the Bluesmirf was mere serendipity. Now, in the joy of seeing it work, I forgot which pin i held high and what not…
Here’s what happened… When it was working fine, I connected the Tx to the Rx of my PIC and powered up the PIC and the bluesmirf. suddenly a flash of data entered the PIC ( i know this because i’ve connected LEDs to PORTB and written a code to output the serial data through PORTB ) and that’s it.
Dr. Jekyll suddenly turns to Mr. Hyde and all hell breaks loose!!!
Somebody pls tell me how to reset this thing. Which pin on the BGB203 is PIO4? pls tell me which pin on which side of the ceramic antenna…
And all i need to do is hold it HIGH for more than a second during powerup?? or something more…
Pls… help!!! 