Are there pins to power this board from some external source other than a USB-C cable? I read the tutorial and what documentation I could find so far but have not had any luck finding any reference to powering the board any other way.
I specifically was hoping to power it from a Battery Babysitter (PRT-13777) with a battery and solar panel.
Thanks,
J
If you’re using an unregulated supply like a battery connected to a Sunny Buddy, your only option would be powering through the USB connector.
BOB-12700 combined with a USB-A to USB-C cable like CAB-14743 would enable you to connect the Sunny Buddy’s output to the USB power input on the Weather Carrier Board.
TS-Chris:
If you’re using an unregulated supply like a battery connected to a Sunny Buddy, your only option would be powering through the USB connector.BOB-12700 combined with a USB-A to USB-C cable like CAB-14743 would enable you to connect the Sunny Buddy’s output to the USB power input on the Weather Carrier Board.
Excellent, Thanks!
Is there any particular reason why VIN isn’t broken out on the majority of MicroMod carrier boards? There’s certainly real-estate available.
jake1164:
Are there pins to power this board from some external source other than a USB-C cable? I read the tutorial and what documentation I could find so far but have not had any luck finding any reference to powering the board any other way.I specifically was hoping to power it from a Battery Babysitter (PRT-13777) with a battery and solar panel.
Thanks,
J
Woah, I looked up that the cable you suggest, CAB-14743 https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14743, costs about $5 (4.95), but if I buy any other cable of that type from other suppliers I work with, like sourceme, will it work? Another option is to use Chinese cables - is that possible?
Since jake1164 is working with low power devices, any USB A - C cable will work, even a crappy Chinese one purchased from the gray market.
If you even want to use said cable elsewhere like on a real high speed USB-C device, you’re better off going with a higher quality (more expensive) cable from the get go so that you have options later. $5.00 really isn’t bad at all for a USB cable anyway and you’re still ahead vs buying a $2.00 cable then finding out you need a better quality cable later and needing to make a second purchase.
I’m interested in doing this as well… so a few questions…
what is the dropout volt on the 5V regulator? Can it go down to the 3.7V min level of a LiPo?
can you feed a 3.3V regulated voltage into one of the 3.3V and GND pins on the side of the board?
what’s the voltage range allowable on the USB 5V?
any idea of current draw?
Thanks!
P.S. suggest that the V2 of this board have a connector for a 5V VIN other than the USB…
**There isn't a 5 volt regulator on the board but there is a 3.3 volt regulator and the dropout on that is less than 0.5 volts. The data sheet for the regulator can be found [[here](https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/AP7361C.pdf).** **[/b]** **** **> 2. can you feed a 3.3V regulated voltage into one of the 3.3V and GND pins on the side of the board?** **** __**Yes, but cut the MEAS jumper on the edge of the board to the left of the reset button first.**__ **** **> 3. what's the voltage range allowable on the USB 5V?** **** __**No more than 6 volts, the lower range hasn't been tested but is probably around 3.5 volts.**__ **** **> 4. any idea of current draw?** **** __**Sadly, no. It would depend on a lot of factors that haven't been tested. You will need to measure current with the different peripherals enabled and operating to know for sure.** ](https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/AP7361C.pdf)__
- what is the dropout volt on the 5V regulator? Can it go down to the 3.7V min level of a LiPo?